Beyond Unity - Ferrite at Work

Jagau posted this 16 December 2023

I transferred my thread on Ferrite at Work here to BeyondUnity.org

beyond-unity ferrite

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Jagau posted this 21 September 2020

Very judicious remark Nekvadrat,

I made different assemblies and in one of my set I noticed that the location of the 2 ferrites one in relation to the other seems important and even when they are very close to one of the otherwise it only worked if I removed L6 the coil in one turn, a curious phenomenon to study.
For the Tesla switch I did not experiment but will reread the details on Tesla.
Thank you for your help Nekvadrat
jagau

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UndisclosedMember posted this 21 September 2020

@Jagau, and the team

yesterday I made a second identical device, except I did not use Litz wire, only 0.2mm x 19 strand tinned copper wire. The 50K potentiometer was not enough, I had to add a 40K resistor in series.

Led D1 is brighter with the Litz wire than on the other device.

I have just disconnected the small capacitor that I had placed in parallel with D2 and which made D1 much brighter. Immediately, the tension on V1 rises again.

On the second device, I had placed a small capacitor in parallel with D1 to get more brightness, but I just removed it. Here too, the tension on V1 rises again immediately.

I will observe until tomorrow the tension of V1 on both.
Perhaps it will be necessary to cut the power supply for a few minutes and measure the voltage of V1 at rest to have a better idea of the real voltage. I will do it tomorrow.

Greetings
Mimo

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Jagau posted this 21 September 2020

Hi Mimo,

We are in experimentation mode and that can help whatever brings us back.

I will also invite those who have succeeded, sometimes it is the small details and observations that you have made that help us all to move forward. Do not hesitate to tell us about your tests.

Jagau

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UndisclosedMember posted this 22 September 2020

Sadly the new one didn't charge. Ran down to .9 volts so called it off. Will have to rebuild and see how that goes.

Can someone post the ohms on the pot setting to see if mine was even close?

thay

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Atti posted this 22 September 2020

Hey Jagau.

There may be other better solutions. Yes, this is an experimental mode right now. As you say.
At present, I continue to maintain my contention that this is in part desulfurizing.
Why do so many people run out of battery after a while?
I know a lot depends on the settings.
And that doesn’t mean there’s no option in this app.
If the process works, it should work not only with a small battery (1.2V) but also with a larger battery. For me, the question is, why does it work, how and for how long?

If you look at the oscilloscope diagram in the uploaded video, you can see that almost a quarter of the current returns to the battery. Why?
I think this is a forward switching in asymmetric mode.
The circle is not self-vibrating here. So the control.
The diode is replaced by an LED connected in series with another transformer.
When this other transformer is loaded with the correct polarity, it works similarly to this arrangement.

One has loosely coupled coils. In the other, the coils are on two transformers.
Thus, if one of the columns is loaded with the correct polarity, the self-induction voltage on the load on the control column and on the control coil will increase.
This is returned to the battery. The only question is how much we will use and how much we can miss.

Jagau and everyone.
If not, could you show an oscilloscope image of the recorded image? Thus, it would turn out that the phenomenon is similar in others.

(i hope the google translation is understandable, but if anyone bothers you let me know)

Atti.

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UndisclosedMember posted this 22 September 2020

@thaelin,
here is the value of the potentiometer of my 2 devices:
44.2K for the one with the Litz wire and 40.4K for the one with the tinned copper wire. With this setting, the LEDs are very bright and do not flash.
Check the correct order of your connections, because this assembly does not present any difficulty, it must light up as soon as the power is turned on, either in flashing or fixed mode. The potentiometer must be adjusted at the limit of the flashing / fixed LEDs. Remember to reverse the two ends of L3 from the diagram in the first post above. Check the data sheet of your transistor, its base is not always the middle leg. Obviously, scrupulously respect the winding directions of the coils, including L6 placed in 8.

For all, according to my findings:

1 / By adjusting the potentiometer so that the 2 LEDs flash quickly, you obtain a complete self-charge of the batteries, within a time which depends on the initial voltage, but at most in a few hours. The voltage then slightly exceeds 2.4 volts. When the LEDs are on steadily, the complete self-charging of the batteries also operates, within a slightly longer time and the maximum voltage is slightly lower, but still higher than 2.3 Volts.

2 / I brought the two tori together and positioned them in all possible arrangements. I did not see any improvement in the brightness of the LEDs or in the evolution of the voltage.

3 / On my device with the Litz wire, the D1 led is slightly brighter on D2. On the other device, D1 and D2 have approximately the same brightness. The advantage with Litz's thread is very moderate: D1 a little brighter, but D2 a little less than on the other device.

4 / By placing a capacitor of very small value in parallel with D1 or D2 (test with a panel of capacitors to find the right value), we obtain a very significant increase in the brightness of D1, but the voltage of the battery drops .

5 / By placing a neodymium magnet between L4 and l5, North against the outer edge of the torus, and with an adjustment of the potentiometer, I succeeded in lighting 4 leds connected in parallel, very bright. The voltage has dropped to around 1.6V. I did not continue the experiment beyond a few minutes. I removed the magnet and set to classic mode. This morning, the battery had fully recovered and was around 2.4 Volts.

Greetings
Mimo

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Jagau posted this 22 September 2020

Hi Mimo

You shared valuable information. After having made various tests that you have realized the tension to drop a few times but as you said at the end;

This morning, the battery had fully recovered and was around 2.4 Volts.

You are proof that it works. And several others have also succeeded, just follow the plan as indicated by Nekvadrta.

My potentiometer is very close to your 49K value, it looks the same.
Your advice is very relevant and I believe that several will benefit from it, thank you Mimo.

I will post more photos that can help others succeed.

Jagau

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Jagau posted this 22 September 2020

Hi Atti

I use NIMH rechargeable batteries, not regular batteries. The batteries did not have time to sulphate a NI-MH battery does not contain any sulfite, it is composed of nickel hydroxide for the positive electrode and for the negative electrode use an alloy that absorbs hydrogen. They lose their efficiency by degradation of materials they are not recoverable.

When you run a project in selfrunner mode like this, the batteries must constantly power the circuit and recharge at the same time.
The beauty of this project is that it works, we have several that have been successful and it's up to us to try to find out how.
This is what we are all doing together.

@ all

On another Russian forum I found this pdf which can be helpful, it is in Russian but you can translate it easily with google translate. See attach pdf

Jagau

Attached Files

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Wistiti posted this 22 September 2020

Hey Jagau.

It's me or in the .pdf you shared L4 and L5 are also bifilar?

Thank you!

ps: witch free translator do you suggest?

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Jagau posted this 22 September 2020

Hi wistiti
The pdf provided is not from Nekvadrat, it is that another one who made it is a kind of summary that he took everywhere on different sites.
If you reread carefully he says it clearly and I quote him:

To facilitate the perception, I drew transformers on the cores.

This is to facilitate understanding it is not as the author did.

I use a BD139 transistor

Jagau

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